A&F Co. CEO Fran Horowitz on Leadership, Culture, and Reinventing Iconic Brands

At NRF, Matt Shay, President and CEO of the National Retail Federation, welcomed Abercrombie & Fitch Co. Chief Executive Officer Fran Horowitz to the stage following her recognition at the NRF Foundation Honors.

The conversation offered a candid look at Horowitz's leadership journey, the cultural transformation behind Abercrombie's resurgence, and the principles guiding the company's next phase of growth.

A Career Built on Authentic Leadership

Fran Horowitz brings more than 40 years of retail experience, beginning in department stores before moving into specialty retail. Early roles at companies such as Bloomingdale's shaped her leadership philosophy.

From the start, Horowitz learned the importance of being approachable, authentic, and deeply connected to associates at every level. She credits strong mentors early in her career for reinforcing a belief that great ideas can come from anywhere in the organization.

That mindset remains central to how she leads today.

Why Listening to Customers Changed Abercrombie

One of Horowitz's earliest lessons at Abercrombie was the importance of truly listening to customers rather than telling them what they should want.

She shared a now-famous example from the company's denim business. Customers consistently asked for a simple change, adding zippers to jeans that previously did not have them. Once the brand listened and acted, denim sales reached record levels.

The lesson was clear. Staying close to the customer and responding to real needs drives growth more effectively than rigid brand assumptions.

Rebuilding Brand Identity at A&F and Hollister

When Horowitz joined Abercrombie & Fitch Co., the company's two core brands had grown too similar. Abercrombie and Hollister lacked clear differentiation.

Through research and listening tours, the leadership team repositioned Hollister to focus on the teen market while aging up Abercrombie. This strategic separation allowed teams to better understand their customers and design with purpose.

By honoring the company's 130-year heritage while inviting new thinking, Horowitz helped unlock the full potential of both brands.

Empowering Teams Through Accountability and Autonomy

Culture was the foundation of the turnaround.

Horowitz described an organization filled with smart, curious, and optimistic people who lacked autonomy and accountability. By empowering teams and trusting their expertise, leadership unlocked innovation across the business.

She emphasizes humility as her first leadership principle. Walking the campus, engaging in informal conversations, and being fully present are not symbolic gestures. They are how leaders learn what is really happening inside the organization.

Navigating Change in an Always-Evolving Industry

Retail, Horowitz noted, has no finish line.

Change is constant, whether driven by consumer behavior, macroeconomic forces, or technology. Her guidance to teams is to focus on what they can control, block out noise, and execute with discipline.

Mistakes are treated as opportunities to learn. Horowitz encourages open debate, real-time feedback, and accountability, reinforcing a culture that moves quickly and does not dwell on setbacks.

What Comes Next for Abercrombie & Fitch Co.

Looking ahead, Abercrombie & Fitch Co. is focused on global expansion, partnerships, and innovation.

Today, approximately 80 percent of the business comes from North America, with growing opportunities across Europe and Asia-Pacific. The company has established offices in London and Shanghai to support that growth.

The operating model is also evolving. Licensing partnerships in categories such as eyewear and kids apparel represent a strategic shift, alongside continued investment in digital capabilities and AI-driven innovation.

The Takeaway for Retail Leaders

Fran Horowitz's story reinforces a powerful truth about retail leadership.

Sustainable success is built on humility, listening, and trust. Brands are transformed not by chasing trends, but by empowering people, staying close to customers, and embracing change with confidence.

For retail leaders navigating constant disruption, the lesson is simple and enduring. Culture comes first. From there, everything else can move always forward.